Sunday 30 November 2014

DAY 96: LA STORTA to ROME.

Sunday 30 November.

 

This was our final day, we would enter Rome and all the hard work and effort would be over. We were down at 7 am on the dot for the restaurant opening with our bags all ready to go. It was a good breakfast with muesli and yoghurt included. We wanted an early start as all of the route was on the road and where, reportedly, in places there would be no pavement. The idea was that if we got off just after 7am it would be quiet, especially it also being Sunday. I had written out the description of the route from Cicerone last night so we would know where we were, hopefully.

 

The first section kept to the Via Cassia and passed the Chapella della Visione where the actual last section in our guide book began. There were waymarks but infrequent though I was following them and missed a turning onto a quieter road suggested by Cicerone. We were on the Via Cassia for another kilometre before the waymarks joined up with the Cicerone version again and from then on they both agreed. The pavement had continued along the roadside and the traffic wasn't particularly heavy but when we left the Via Cassia and joined the Via Trionfale there were about 2 kilometres with just a small hard shoulder. This road now went all the way into the heart of Rome and we would be on it most of the way. After this initial section the rest was through housing and shopping areas with good pavements. A strange thing about this road was the house numbers, at the start they were between 11000 and 12000. That meant 5500 each side and if there was, say, 10 metres between each house we would have 55 km to go. Fortunately when we reached the city precincts the numbers took a sudden dive from many thousands to just over a hundred.

 

There wasn't any parks on the way in to stop for a coffee but we did find a bench at the side of a street where I got the cooker going. We got some strange looks from passers-by out for a Sunday morning stroll. On the move again there was a long steady climb up one of the 'Seven Hills of Rome' to Mons Gaudi and as we crested the top there was the Eternal City laid out before us with the huge dome of St Peter's dominating the picture.


It was breathtaking and now we realised we had made it. Down the hill on the other side and still on the Via Trionfale we made our way towards the Vatican through now crowds of tourists. As we followed the route described by Cicerone, no waymarks now, there was a queue for the Vatican Museum it stretched down a hill and round corners, fortunately we weren't going that way. We turned a corner, people were still joining the queue, and ahead was an archway. Through this was a colonnade of tall white columns and then the Piazza San Pietro, St Peter's Square and the Basilica. Our long pilgrimage, all the way from Canterbury in England through France, Switzerland and Italy, was over. The first thing was to take some photographs to record the event and I got a friendly tourist to take one of us together. Then a young Australian lad talked to us and when he heard of our mammoth walk wanted our photos. He told us that if we wanted to visit the Basilica we would have to join another queue that snaked all the way round the square. Seemingly on the last Sunday of the month entry is free, at any other time it is something like €15 and quieter. We decided to come back tomorrow and pay the money.

 

 

We were staying at La Salle, a religious retreat and hotel where Moira's brother Alex had stayed when he was in Rome a few months ago; he recommended it. Moira had managed to make reservations on 'booking.com' and we were staying for three nights. Moira had also booked our flight back to Glasgow for Wednesday. At the info office just off St Peter's Square we got a city map and directions to the nearest Metro station. It was the Ottaviano and on a street directly up from the Basilica. Earlier Moira had bought tickets for the Metro at a news stand; it is a fixed price, €1:50 per journey, and she got 10 tickets which should do us for our stay in the city. It was just 4 stops to Cornelia station where Alex had directed us to get off. He said to make sure we left by the correct exit but didn't say which one that was, we were lucky and our accommodation was only a short way round the corner on Via Aurelia. It didn't take them long to process our passports and issue the key to the room; we booked dinner for tonight but it's not until 8 pm just like in Spain. The room was smaller than the ones of the last few nights but it was all right and the water lovely and hot in the shower. Moira made some soup from a packet that had some left in it for lunch and there was a hard boiled egg as well.

 

The WiFi was good and we didn't have to bother with a password. I sent off some emails to the family, Pancreatic Cancer and the Greenock Telegraph telling them we had arrived and made it, with a photograph of us in front of St Peter's Basilica. Later we went out for a walk but we were tired after the slog into the city this morning so just had a stroll round the area near the hotel. It was well out of the city centre and the tourist regions so not a great deal of interesting things to see but it gave us a breath of fresh air. We have two full days to see all the attractions, the only problem will be the weather, rain is forecast.

 

We relaxed when we got back to our room and listened to the radio until it was time to go down for dinner. We were the only ones having the dinner and I had to go looking for somebody to serve us. It was all right but Moira wasn't impressed. We had a pasta with ham to start, pork fillet in batter with vegetables and salad next then fruit and cake to finish. We will probably eat out somewhere else for the next two nights; what we would like is a big lasagne or spaghetti Bolognese, and enough just in one course to do us. Back in the room it was after 9 pm, bed time and also time to reflect on what we had done.

 

Looking back over the last 3 months it had been a real challenge. The most demanding and lengthy walk we have ever undertaken. Before starting it was just thought to be one day at a time and one foot in front of the other. That was just the physical side but mentally it was even more taxing. On the very first day it was nearly disaster with my back seizing up and after that it was always a worry that kept nagging at the back of my mind. Going through France I didn't think I was ever going to make it and spent my time thinking about how to bale with dignity. I became a bit happier as we progressed but then considered maybe if I managed to halfway we could stop and come back later to complete it. What knocked that idea on the head was Eileen arranging a coffee morning at the beginning of November to raise money for Pancreatic Cancer. I couldn't stop before that so kept going. By the time that fund raising event was over we were halfway down Italy, so It was a case of 'might as well finish it now'. Well we are here, in St. Peter's Square in Rome having completed the nearly 2000 km from Canterbury and I'm glad I had enough willpower to overcome my doubts. When I used to run in South Africa for Benoni Harriers nobody dropped out from a race because 'Danny's boys don't bale' a saying from an old Marathon Captain, Danny Ousthazen; this was the mantra that helped me when ever I faltered.

 

On the other hand Moira was strong and never seemed to have any doubts of making it. She suffered from blisters, sore feet, and various other ached and pains but just soldiered on. She was an inspiration and put me to shame at times with all my complaints and moans when things weren't going as planned.

 

Now it is over and after a few days of wandering around Rome it will be home for Christmas and the New Year before heading of the Canary Islands in January.

 

 

Saturday 29 November 2014

DAY 95: CAMPAGNANO di ROMA to LA STORTA.

Saturday 29 November.

 

It was very noisy outside, there was a constant hum from some roadworks or something going on. It continued all night but it didn't really disturb our sleep. Breakfast this morning wasn't until 7:30 am and it was hardly worth waiting for. I asked for cafe Americano but still got a small cup half full of strong ghastly rubbish. Moira managed to get some milk to put in it and that helped. The other thing about the coffee is that it is always just warm. I like it hot.

 

We got started at 7:45 am and followed the route out of town that we checked out yesterday afternoon. The road was a bit busy but once clear of the town we forked onto a minor road and it was a lot more comfortable. The weather was overcast but it was dry and cool, nice for walking. Cicerone said that the waymarking wasn't very good but we found it all right. The guide book must have taken a different route as its route didn't resemble where we were again. There was a long climb getting out of Campagnano then we dropped again into a valley where it was flat for some time. The route was on minor tarred roads and wide gravel tracks, all dry and firm. My shoes were still damp from yesterday but with dry socks on they were fine and comfortable.

 

The first place after 5 km we were to come to was Santuario della Madonna del Sorbonne but we didn't see it. It was built when a man who tended the pigs had a mutilated arm was healed when he had a vision of the Virgin Mary. We reached Formello at 7.5 km in the expected time but we were still looking for the Santuario. I decided to carry Moira's mini iPad after that and check the route on it as we went along and so know where we were along the route. It worked well and now the book was actually following the waymarks. Formello was another large town and for a change we had to drop down to the old section it wasn't on a hill.

 

 

After leaving the town it was on a nice gravel track that started and finished with an engraved of a pilgrim on a paving slab.

Using the route description I was able to plan our tea break as it told us where to expect some seats along the path. When we got going again it was an undulating route as it made its way round the contour path on a hill. It appears to be mainly sheep farming in this area and we passed fields with bleating sheep and surprisingly for this time of year small lambs. There were a few spots of rain but it didn't come to anything. We crossed a bridge over the Via Cassia then climbed a hill to a model aeroplane club. The members were flying their small planes and we sat at the edge of a field and watched one loop-the-loop. As we came round in front of the club house we stopped to admire the various models that were on display. At that point the rain did start and we had to get our waterproofs on. It continued until we finished but didn't get too heavy.

After leaving the model plane flying club the route headed along a ridge on a nice track before turning down a steep rocky rutted lane to the Torrente Valchetta.

On the way down there was a guy on a mountain bike coming up, he seemed to be managing well and had enough breath to wish us 'buon giorno' as he past. The river had to be forded but the guide book said there were large steeping stones to help cross. There were large stones but the water was high and flowing over the stones. Moira was very nervous about getting across but there wasn't any alternative. I went first and didn't bother about changing into my sandals I just waded in. Halfway over I waited and gave Moira a help by holding out by walking pole for her to hold on to. We managed but it could have been a disaster if we had fallen, there was a big drop on one side and with a heavy rucksack on your back, well it doesn't bear thinking about. Once over it was about a kilometre on a very muddy track then a steep climb to Isola Farnese.

 

At the top of the hill there was t-junction and waymarks pointing each way. One way took you to the old town and would have to returned again to continue. We missed out this visit, having seen enough of old walled towns, and headed through the outskirts of the newer section. The road climbed and climbed and climbed, we were exhausted when it eventually levelled out. Moira checked the map on her iPad and this time our location was registering and we were nearly in La Storta and our hotel. About 100 m later the exit boards for Isola Farnese appeared followed immediately with the entrance ones for La Storta. Next we came to the junction with the Via Cassia and our hotel was on this road . There was a supermarket just after the turning and Moira got some beer, wine and milk. We were going to have lunch there, the left-over pizza with a beer but looking at the map on the iPad again it showed we were nearly at our hotel, Albergo Cassia. It was in fact about 200m from the supermarket. It didn't take long to get into the room, the receptionist was dealing with the documentation and our passports later. The room was standard; small, double bed and en suite. We had our pizza and beer now and got the Internet which was strong enough to receive the radio.

 

There wasn't anything to do in La Storta, it was just a town on the outskirts of Rome that straddled the Via Cassia. It's only claim to fame was that Ignatius Loyola stopped here on his way to Rome and had a vision of Christ carrying the cross then went on to from the Jesuits. The event is commemorated with the building of a chapel, Chapella della Visione, which is further down the road that we will pass tomorrow. What with the weather and feeling tired we just stayed in and listened to the radio. Moira did go out again to the supermarket and bought some chicken breasts which she later made into a curry which we had with pasta. She managed to cook this very delicious meal on the Gaz cooker with just one pot.

 

It was more reading and listening to music on the radio until bedtime. This was a busier hotel that the ones we have been staying in the villages and country, so it was a bit noisy with people coming and going to their rooms. Nevertheless we managed to get a good night's sleep. One day to go, tomorrow we arrive in Rome !

 

 

 

 

 

Friday 28 November 2014

DAY 94: SUTRI to CAMPAGNANO di ROMA.

Friday 28 November.

 

The day began very well, we left at 7:45 am after a basic breakfast of a cup of coffee and a couple of croissants. It was dry and the sky though overcast was showing signs of improving but here wasn't any signs of rain. The route took us through Sutri's historic old town and in the main piazza there was a small crowd gathering to watch the erection of a large Christmas tree.

 

 

The waymarks took us through the narrow streets and down to the Via Cassia. Before leaving we crossed the road to the amphitheatre. It was locked up and I was taking photographs through the gate when the woman arrived to open up and let us in. It was a large open area with tiers of stone seats in a circle around it.

 

When we started off there was a cycle path beside the Via Cassia but when it finished we had about half a kilometre at the side of the busy road before we were guided off. Another kilometre was on a minor road before we turned onto a gravel track though hazelnut trees. There weren't any nuts left on the trees, obviously long harvested and the only trace was a few broken shells on the ground. It was a pleasant walk on a dry firm path and eventually we reached a tar road at a golf course. On gravel again we went round the edge of the course to reach the town of Monterosi. There was a climb to the town centre but half way up the hill we found a bench in a car park where it was time for a break and a cup of coffee.

 

After our mid-morning break in Monterosi there was a choice of routes and both reportedly waymarked. One tracked quite close to the Via Cassia while the other took a loop into the countryside to avoid the road and give a quieter walk. We decided to follow the latter though it was longer. It was lovely and flat and initially on a firm dry gravel track but later there were large pools of water and patches of mud. We were making excellent time but not sure where we were and how far we still had to go. When we reached a tar road, Via Ronci, I consulted Cicerone. It said that we followed this road as it turned to the right and met a bigger road the SP16b. After crossing this road we should have later turned right then through an industrial estate to join up with the other waymarked route. We didn't see the turn and just followed the waymarks which carried on straight. After about a kilometre a rest was called for and another look at the guide book. Now it didn't correspond with where we were but the road we were on was still very well waymarked.

It led us through a lovely park and over a stream with waterfalls none of which were mentioned in the guide book. At every bend and crest of a hill we expected to see the town ahead but nothing. Where we started to worry was at a sign with waymarks pointing ahead and above it another sign with Roma and an arrow pointing in the opposite direction. We carried on but when the tar road changed to gravel and it was meadows and woodland ahead we didn't like it. At that point we turned round and headed back to see if there was anybody who could give us directions. There were a few houses about nobody in them, we had covered about 500 m when a car came along. Moira flagged it down and they told us that Compagnano di Roma was indeed straight ahead, about 4 km. Off we went again on this still waymarked route.

 

I began to despair as the track deteriorated from tar to gravel to earth to a narrow muddy wet path. The waymarks also deteriorated from the red and white stickers to strips of red and white plastic tape tied to trees. We didn't have a clue where we were and the dreaded thoughts were of having to get the tent out tonight. The only signs along the path said we were in a Nature Reserve. Suddenly we came to a clearing with a digger working at unblocking a ditch at the side of the track and there was a sign of life. I asked the man for directions and he pointed to a track ahead and said 2-3 km to Campagnano. We had only gone a short distance when we saw high on the hill a tall church tower and houses above a protective city wall. I must have misheard the distance and he had said, 200-300 m. It was the usual steep climb to get into another hilltop town but we had somehow got there.

 

 

We entered the old historic town and we had to make our way through to the new section for our hotel. It involved asking a number of times for directions but at last with a sigh of relief we found it. The room was practically a replica of the one last night just a bit more expensive. We also had the same lunch as yesterday, soup, eggs, coffee and a chocolate biscuit. The WiFi was also first class and I had the radio going.

 

We relaxed until 4 pm then went for a walk. I had copied the initial direction for getting out of town tomorrow from the guide book and we spent some time orientating ourselves. There is the usual trouble finding your way around when there are no names on the streets. I had to resort yet again to asking directions. The man luckily spoke English and we soon found the route with its red and white VF stickers. We also found a supermarket and got coffee, fruit, eggs bread and wine. For diner it was also a repeat of yesterday, pizza. We bought two this time but didn't finish them, what's left will do for lunch tomorrow.

 

It was another evening listening to the radio and reading. We got to sleep at our normal early time. Just 2 days to go !

 

 

 

Thursday 27 November 2014

DAY 93: VETRALLA to SUTRI.

Thursday 27 November.

 

The breakfast was all right, cereal, croissants and coffee. It was at 7 am and we set off half an hour later. The weather was looking quite good when we left, it was cloudy but no rain in the offing. The forecast had said that there was a low chance of rain in the morning but it was highly likely to rain after noon.

 

We climbed up to the old town and turned in the opposite direction from our walk about yesterday. The town wasn't any more attractive that way either. Once clear of the town there was another long climb up a minor road before going off-road.

 

It was along varying types of tracks until we reached the town of Capranica; gravel, muddy wet earthen, and grassy ones. It was really a lovely walk, a little undulating but nothing taxing in the ups. It was through different types of plantations, olive groves, chestnuts and hazelnuts. At one point there were trees and under one were scattered apples, some looked good and fresh and tasted nice and sweet. Most of the tracks were thick with autumn leaves and where it was dry it was pleasant striding out and hear the crunch of the leaves under our feet. On one section that was grassy the track wasn't very clear but the waymarking at that point was excellent and there was no problem finding our way.

 

There was a new waymarker appearing now, a terracotta plaque with the sculpture of VF monk displayed on the front. Going through all these orchards and trees it was difficult to know exactly where we were and it was only when we dropped down a slope to go through a tunnel under a railway line that suddenly the houses of the town started to appear.

I had intended to stop for coffee after 2.5 hours but there wasn't any good spot to sit. Normally we would have parked ourselves on the grass or at the side of the path but after yesterday's rain that wasn't desirable. The conditions were very good for walking, dry and cool, and we were making really great time so we kept going. We reached to Capranica just before 11 am and found a seat as we got to the first houses and shops. As we were sitting enjoying our coffee people were passing with umbrellas up and cars had their wipers on. When we started off again it was it spitting a little, the sky was dark but it wasn't heavy yet. A little way along the road there was a split in the route, one went straight through the old historical part of the town while another by-passed Capranica, the two versions joined up at the other end of the town.

 

 

We picked the way through the town and it was worth it. The entrance to the old town was through a magnificent arched portal and the narrow streets were lined with old houses, churches and at the end a fountain. The street then dropped sharply and twisted round the city walls down to the busy road below. The path down was cobbled and in places very slippery with the rain. Once at the bottom we rejoined the other option that by-passed the town. Looking back up the hill Moira remarked that it resembled Edinburgh Castle with the rocky surface and high walls.

 

After the drop down from Capranica we has to regain the height again and it was a long steep climb on a gravel track. At the top we reached a tarred road and crossed it to a long woodland path. This followed a small river through the trees and was narrow and winding. Fortunately it was very well waymarked and would have been a very pleasant walk if it hadn't been for the rain. After leaving Capranica it started to pour down and our feet were sodden again.

The track crossed the river a few times by bridges constructed from logs cut from the trees, a couple had hand rails but one was just the wooden logs and a bit dodgy to cross safely. When we eventually reached a clearing with picnic tables we thought it must be close to Sutri our destination for the day. The waymarks pointed us through a makeshift gate in a fence to a wide path. After some time we realised that we hadn't seen any waymarks, previously they had been plentiful and the path didn't seem to be coming out of the woods. We decided that we must have missed a turning or gone the wrong way at the gate in the fence so turned and headed all the way back. It must have been over a kilometre that we had gone and I was having visions of being lost and having to sleep in the tent we had carried all the way from Canterbury. Back at the fence and clearing we thoroughly checked the signs and waymarks, there didn't seem to be any alternative route that we had missed. The decision was to carry on, the path must eventually lead somewhere then we could decided what to do next.

 

The rain was still pouring down but our minds were on other things as we briskly made our way again and passed the spot where we had turned back. Moira said that probably just round the next bend there would be a waymark and if only we had carried on a bit more, but no such luck just the path heading through more trees. Then suddenly we came to a road, there was a big sign with an arrow saying 'Via Francigena' and up above was another hilltop town that we hoped was Sutri. The arrow was pointing away from the town and we assumed the route by-passed it, we headed the other way towards civilisation. It was only a short distance and round a bend that the road joined the Via Cassia and there was a road sign pointing to Sutri Centre and another for the Hotel Sutrium, our hotel; we were in luck !

 

It was a long steep climb up stairs to narrow streets leading we assumed to the town centre. I asked a man on the way for directions to the hotel and only got a shrug but shortly after there was an arrow and sign pointing to the left saying 'Hotel Sutrium 50m'. The woman took our passports for recording later and we didn't have to hang about waiting for the key. The room was small but adequate and we were soon out of our wet clothes and feeling comfortable once more. It was now 2:30 pm, we had left Capranica at 11:30 am so it had taken 3 hours to cover what Cicerone said was 5.5 km. We had done an extra 2 km approximately rechecking our route but it still seemed a long time. I re-looked at the guide book and it didn't seem to take the woodland route and somehow used the road.

 

It was a late lunch but welcome; soup, hard boiled egg, coffee and chocolate biscuits. After showering, the water was good and hot, I washed our socks and then settled down to relax after that hectic final session. The WiFi was excellent and I had the radio on to update us on World Affairs via Jeremy Vine ! At 4 pm Moira went to a shop in the piazza below and got milk, fruit and wine, it was still raining. For dinner we had a pizza in the room, the rain was continuing and there was thunder and lightening. The heating had now come on in the room, the socks were drying nicely on the radiator and it was comfortable. We just lay on the bed, reading and listening to the radio until after 9 pm when it was time to get to sleep. The weather forecast for tomorrow promises sunshine, just 3 days to go !

 

 

Wednesday 26 November 2014

DAY 92: VITERBO to VETRALLA.

Wednesday 26 November.

 

I had a good night's sleep and felt a lot better in the morning. The hotel breakfast was good, muesli, yoghurt, croissants and a nice help-your-self coffee. It was 7:30 am when we got away, the weather was dry though there was supposed to be rain on the way. The forecast was right and it wasn't long before it began to come down gently. We put up the covers over our rucksacks before it got heavier, which it did after half an hour. We ended up get very wet and my rain jacket is beginning to leak.

 

 

The other end of Viterbo had some historic buildings and a big church that was more attractive than the section we looked at yesterday.The road dropped down and kept going down which was surprising as we didn't remember climbing up that much yesterday.

 

 

The route then entered a minor road, Strada Signorino, it was cut through rock and the faces shear on both sides. This road ran for some distance and it must have been very labour intensive cutting through the rock for such a small road that was also very old. The route followed a motorway most of the day; initially after leaving the Strada Signorino it ran beside this highway but later after crossing under it from side to side we moved into an off-road track through near-by olive groves. The rain was getting heavier and the underfoot conditions very wet and muddy.

 

It was 17 km to our destination of Vetralla and no villages or hamlets in between. With the continuous rain we were unable to have a stop so kept going all the way. We got to the outskirts of the town just after 11 am so had made good time even In the poor conditions. As we climbed a hill to the town centre there was a sign pointing the way to our hotel. Albergo da Benedetta. It was fortunate as there were a few turns and twists in little streets to get there and we would have had trouble finding it without the series of arrows.

 

When we reached the hotel it looked all shut up. Moira pressed the bell on the gate and eventually got a response, the voice said something like 'wait a minute'. We expected somebody to come from inside but nobody appeared. I then noticed that the gate was partially open, I thought maybe somebody had opened it automatically, we went in. At least we were able to shelter from the rain under a large porch; we got put of our wet gear and waited. The hotel was closed but at least we were in a dry place. After a few minutes a car arrived outside and a man came in. It was a long job as he transcribed our passport details, produced a town map and marked it with all the places to eat and visit, then informed us about breakfast and WiFi password. After all that we got the key to our room and could get out of all our wet clothes. We had the hotel all to ourselves, the man had left in his car again.

 

I made a cup of coffee and then had a shower. The water took a while to get hot but it came through eventually and it was refreshing. The WiFi turned out to be very good and I tuned into the radio. Later Moira made a packet of soup that she bought yesterday and there were eggs that we had hard boiled this morning. After lunch we relaxed for an hour then went for a walk. The rain had stopped and some patches of blue were now showing in the sky but we had our rain gear on just in case. Following the map we were given it was a twisty course through small streets and alleys down to the main road, the Via Cassia again. We crossed and made our way up the hill on the other side to the old historic town. At the top there was a sign pointing the way tomorrow for the VF heading out of town. In the other direction there were narrow streets, the crenelated tower of an old castle and an a big ugly looking church which was closed; nothing much else. We made our way back down to the main road and found the supermarket that was marked for us on the map. After stocking up with a few essentials and something for dinner we headed back to the hotel.

 

We spent the rest of the afternoon in the room listening to the radio and reading. For dinner we had what was left of the chicken from last night with curry flavoured cous cous. Later we heard people downstairs and somebody else going to one of the rooms, so we didn't have the place to ourselves. Otherwise it was quiet. The heating was good and everything was now dry, there is to be more rain tomorrow then sunny for our last few days into Rome.

 

Tuesday 25 November 2014

DAY 91: MONTEFIASCONE to VITERBO.

Tuesday 25 November.

 

Our hotel was inscribed with the saying 'est, est ,est', but so were lots of other bars, restaurants and hotels. It was based on the legend of a nobleman who sent his servant on ahead to towns to find out where the good wines were served and to mark them with 'est' meaning here. When the servant came to Montefiascone he marked the inn with 'est, est, est' as the quality was so high and there the nobleman drank himself to death. All establishments advertising with the symbols no doubt claiming the excellent wine was served there. His body is buried in one of the chapels in town.

 

 

There wasn't any email from 'booking.com' or the B&B in reply to our suggested time of arrival and if everything was now all right. Moira checked and found that she could cancel this booking without penalty. She did this and booked us into another hotel. It was bit more expensive but we didn't need the hassle.

 

 

They didn't serve the breakfast in the hotel, we were directed instead to 'Il Cafe' in the piazza and to tell them we were from the Albergo Dante. The woman there didn't seem very interested in serving us and when she got round to it breakfast consisted of a cup of coffee and a croissant. After our meagre meal we headed for the Cathedral di Santa Mergherita to see if the light was better inside now. This time we couldn't get in, the door shut and locked so we were disappointed yet again. The route wasn't far from the Cathedral and it was a climb up to view point above the dome of the Cathedral and a view of the Lago di Bolsena stretching out in the distance.

Also at the viewpoint was a ruined tower, Torre de Pelligrino and the Rocca dei Papi, the papal residency during the 12-16th centuries. Cicerone said that the waymarking wasn't very good and we had the iPad handy to follow the instructions from it, but it must have been improved as we found it excellent all the way today and had no problems.


The route took a winding tour round the streets to get down from the hill and then went off-road to pick up a track which soon became the flat flagstones of an old Roman road. As usual it was straight and varied between the cobbled surface and baked earth. I was wearing my new shoes and they seemed comfortable at first but later I felt the left one rubbing on my heel. I stopped and Moira put some tape on it to prevent a blister forming, it was a lot better after that. Looking back Montefiascone was visible for a long time and we could clearly see the town and the dome of the Cathedral on the hilltop. Our started to climb and after dropping down the other side Montefiascone disappeared from view and the countryside was now perfectly flat ahead of us.

 

It the middle of nowhere was Bagnaccio, thermal springs of sulphurous water. There were a few pools and lots of people were in bathing, the car park outside had a number of motorhomes parked.

 

The woman at the gate welcomed us and stamped our credentials and said we could come in and look around. To bathe was €5 but we just had a wander about. They served coffee there so we didn't think it would be appreciated if we set up the cooker. The woman said that the 'vans in the car park could stay overnight free; we might come here sometime with our 'van and take the waters. When we left we didn't go far, just round the corner and sat at the fence where I made the coffee.

 

It was only another 7 km to Viterbo on a smooth flat track all the way. We made good time and were in the outskirts of the city in an hour. Before reaching the main road there was an enormous cemetery and it was a strange structure. The tombs were in what Cicerone observed as a 'more a cross between futuristic blocks of council flats and an industrial estate than a traditional burial ground', a fair description. When we reached the road into Viterbo centre it was horrendous and thick with traffic. Fortunately there were the on and off ramps to a motorway close-by and after that it eased a bit. There was also a pavement after that and it made life a bit easier. Next to a roundabout there was a sign to a Coop hyper market, but we had difficulties finding a way in for pedestrians, we went in by the car ramp to the underground carpark. I was looking for another canister of gas for the cooker but they only had the type that you pierce, I was under the impression that type was illegal for safety reasons. We left and headed for the old town in search for our hotel. On the way there was a shop selling big cylinders of gas, we tried there and found what we were looking for. We now have enough gas to last us until we return home.

 

The map on the iPad was working, giving our location and a pin for the hotel. It didn't take long to find it and there was no messing with copying passports, that was done later. We were given the key and the lift took us up to our room. They had Sky TV and good WiFi but there wasn't any hot water. The receptionist said there was a fault and it would be OK by 2 pm. I made a cup of coffee and we had it with cheese sandwiches for lunch. We relaxed and watched Sky News in English on the TV then went for a walk.

 

We traced where the route goes for the morning then strolled up to the piazza at the portal where we had entered the old town. Viterbo was a bit of a dump and didn't have the charm of some of the places we have visited recently. This used to be the winter residence of the popes during their 12-16th century exile from Rome. One book we read said that they must have missed the lectures on a life of poverty due to the opulence of the place but none of it was apparent to us. Moira was going to head back to the Coop we had been to earlier to shop for dinner but it was starting to rain slightly. Moira had all her rain gear on and continued but I went back to the hotel only having my fleece on.

 

I complained about the lack of hot water again and the receptionist was very apologetic and indicated that the mechanic was busy working on it and she would phone the room when it was repaired. Moira came back after a long time in the supermarket, especially at the checkout. She said that pregnant women got priority in the queue and one was led right to the front with a trolley laden with a month's shopping. The same applies for the disabled and she had to wait while a woman in a wheelchair was put ahead of her. She got a packet of minestrone soup and roast chicken which we had with cous cous for dinner.

 

Moira had recovered from the touch of cold she had the other day now I was starting to suffer. My nose was feeling raw and my throat starting to get sore. It felt like hay fever but it's the wrong time of year. I had a shower, the water was now hot, then took an anti- histamine pill and some pain killers and got into bed early. We listened to the radio via the Internet until 8 pm then turned out the light, Moira was tired as well. I had a very good night's sleep, the mixture of pills helped.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Monday 24 November 2014

DAY 90: BOLSENA to MONTEFIASCONE.

Monday 24 November.

 

It was only about 14 km to Montefiascone today and Moira had booked a hotel for tonight on 'booking.com', so we weren't in any hurry to get away. Also I wanted to checked out a sports shop in town for a pair of shoes before we proceeded. We expected that it wouldn't open until after 9 am. We went down for breakfast at 8 am and the man I had the dispute with gave us as chirpy 'Buon giorno'. The breakfast wasn't bad, there was; cereal, yoghurt, croissants, fruit and lots of cakes. They never seem to have milk readily available to pour on the cereal and you have to request it as I also had to do for a spoon to eat it with. The coffee we got was reasonable for a change.

 

We waited in our room reading the paper until nearly 9 am before leaving. Moira paid the bill and we were offered a free bottle of wine, maybe as an apology for the problems. We stopped first at the pharmacy for pain killers and Elastoplast tape, while Moira was there I transferred the wine from the bottle into one of our water bottles. Next it was to the sports shop but it still wasn't open, we gave up and carried on through the town following the waymarks. Lots more shops were open than yesterday but none with shoes.

 

Once we left the town we were on the Via Cassia again but only for a short distance before we headed up into the hills, high above the lake again. Montefiascone was at the southern end of the lake high on a hill overlooking it. Cicerone described a shorter route that used the Via Cassia a lot but the official VF was off-road for about 10 km until it reached the Via Cassia again before the climb up to Montefiascone. It was another very enjoyable route, it might nave been a bit longer than the one using the road but it is much better away from the traffic. It tended to be undulating as it made its way up and down the side of the hill. Also there was a number of steams to cross where there was a drop to the crossing point and a climb again on the other side. Cicerone had indicated that there were a number of streams to ford and one in particular that might be impassable in wet weather. Most turned out to be dry or just a trickle while the dodgy one had a wooden plank of wood as a temporary means of getting across. I managed to go for an hour before I started picking up stones in my shoe again. I changed to my sandals and walked with them until the end.

 

After a couple of hours we found a seat beside a waterfall where we had our morning break. We had just finished our coffee break and were packing up when some people came along the track with their dog. It turned out that two of them, Ellie and Paul, were English and now living in Montefiascone. They were out for a walk with their Italian neighbour, Orlando. We had a chat with them for some minutes and they were impressed with what we were doing.

I gave them one of our cards and hope for a donation. Paul said he came over to Italy on a cheap flight about 10 years ago and immediately fell in love with the place, bought a house and they are still here. Shortly after leaving them we came to a stone plaque with the VF Monk symbol that had 'Roma 100 km'. According to Cicerone it would still be 115 km to go when we reached Montefiascone but we took photographs next to it anyway.

 

 

The track soon began to descend and eventually joined the Via Cassia again. The signpost on the road said 'Montrfiasco 6 km'. There was a path behind the crash barrier at the side of the road that we walk along for a kilometre or so before going on to a minor road and then track that climbed steeply to yet another hilltop town which we could see a long way up.

 

After about 3 km we came to a fountain, Fontane del Sabuco, with seats and it was at a good time for lunch. I made coffee and we had our cheese sandwiches. Once we got going again it was more climbing before we reached the edge of the town and houses. There was a ridge that ran in an arc round to the old town which we could see in the distance built around the Cathedral with a huge done. It was still a long way to go and nearly an hour's walking through the streets before we made our way through the arch and gate into the old town and up to our hotel, Albergo Dante, in the piazza next to the Cathedral.

 


On the way we had passed a Coop supermarket and stocked up with a packet of soup, bread and tuna salad for dinner. We also had a couple of beers and a packet of crisps that we now had lying back in the bed. We also spotted a sports shop at the edge of the old town and at 4 pm when expected it to reopen we walked all the way down the hill again. It turned out to be worth while as I got a pair of Adidas shoes that fitted well, they cost €49, not bad I suppose. The next plan was to visit the Cathedral on the way back and headed there when we reached the piazza at the top of the hill. It was now after 5 pm and starting to get dark meaning that when we got inside the huge domed building we could hardly see a thing. What we did see was amazing, the inside was just a large circular chamber with the altar at one side and the enormous dome above. It is reported to be the third largest dome after St Peter's in Rome and one in Florence. We couldn't see much detail and planned to come back in the morning before we leave.

 

 

Back at the hotel I checked out my new shoes and they seemed fine and should get me to the end safely. The old ones were in a really bad way and Moira was able to stick her finger through the hole the toe for a photograph. Moira made the soup and the salad which we had while listening to the radio. The WiFi was first class and there wasn't any problem picking up the BBC. Moira booked a B&B in Viterdo where we head tomorrow and got an email from 'booking com' saying she had omitted entering our arrival time and this could result in losing the room and being charged a fee. This was totally ridiculous and Moira emailed back saying as such, she also emailed the B&B with our probable time of getting there but pointed out as we were walking the VF it wouldn't be accurate. We await a reply.

 

We listened to some catch-up programmes on the radio and it was after 9 pm when we finally turned out the light. It was comfortable and quiet giving us a good night's sleep.